Anthurium andraeanum

Photo Hatem Moushir, CC BY-SA 3.0

Species

Anthurium andraeanum

  • Flamingo Flower
  • Painter's Palette
  • Laceleaf

Glossy red or pink spathes that last for months. The plant is easy to keep alive and harder to keep flowering, and the answer is nearly always light.

Caring for Anthurium andraeanum

At a glance

Light
Bright indirectBright indirect light is what produces new flowers. No direct sun.
Water
Water when the top 3cm (1 inch) of the mix is dry.
Humidity
High — 60% or above
Temperature
18–27°C
Soil
Very chunky mix, at least half orchid bark.
Fertiliser
High-phosphorus feed every 6 weeks in spring and summer.

Anthurium andraeanum produces waxy, brightly coloured spathes that last for weeks or months. The coloured part is a modified leaf, and the real flowers are the tiny bumps along the spike in the middle.

It is an epiphyte, growing on trees rather than in soil, and that is the key to everything below.

Light

Anthurium andraeanum grows best in bright, indirect light. This is the single biggest factor in whether it keeps flowering.

The plant will survive happily in medium light and simply stop producing new spathes. If yours has stopped flowering, move it brighter before changing anything else.

Too much light

Direct sun scorches the leaves and fades the spathes.

Watering

Water when the top 3cm (1 inch) of the mix is dry, then let it drain completely.

On average:

  • Spring & summer: once a week
  • Autumn & winter: once every 2 weeks

Signs of overwatering

  • Leaves yellow from the base
  • Stems go soft at soil level
  • Roots turn brown and mushy

Signs of underwatering

  • Leaves curl and go limp
  • Leaf edges turn crisp
  • Flowers fade early

Humidity and temperature

Humidity above 50% keeps the leaves and spathes in good condition. Below that the leaf tips brown.

Keep it between 18°C and 27°C (65-80°F), away from draughts.

Soil and repotting

Soil

This matters more than for most houseplants. Anthurium andraeanum needs a very chunky mix, at least half orchid bark, with perlite and a little compost.

Standard potting compost suffocates the roots and is the most common reason these plants decline slowly.

Repotting

Every 2 years in spring. Anthurium roots like air around them, so do not pack the mix down.

Feeding

A high-phosphorus fertiliser every 6 weeks through spring and summer encourages flowering. A general-purpose feed high in nitrogen produces leaves at the expense of flowers.

Nothing in winter.

Pruning and grooming

Cut spent flower stalks right down at the base once the spathe fades and browns.

Remove yellowed leaves the same way. Wipe the leaves occasionally to keep them glossy.

Common problems

No new flowers

Not enough light, then the wrong fertiliser. In that order.

Green flowers

Too little light, or too much nitrogen.

Brown leaf tips

Low humidity, or minerals from tap water.

Yellow leaves

Overwatering, or a mix that is too dense and holding water around the roots.

The facts

Rank
Species
Family
Araceae
Native to
Colombia and Ecuador
Difficulty
Moderate
Growth rate
Moderate
Mature size
45cm (18in) tall and wide
Toxicity
Toxic to pets and humans

Frequently Asked Questions

Why has my Anthurium stopped flowering?

Almost always not enough light. Anthurium survive in medium light but only produce new spathes in bright, indirect light. Move it closer to a window, out of direct sun, and give it a few months.

Why are the flowers coming out green?

Green spathes usually mean too little light, or too much nitrogen from a general-purpose fertiliser. Move it brighter and switch to a high-phosphorus feed.

Written and maintained by the Plantnooq team.Last updated 2 August 2026.